Soulful Africa

Having traveled to many European countries and experienced Asia to some extent, I was craving a totally different flavor. After transitioning back to my curly hair, which has an Afro texture, I’ve had an inner calling to explore the African culture further through painting, dance, and music. Venturing into African countries was a natural evolution on my journey of self-discovery to explore what connects me to this place beyond my hair.

In 2021, I started searching and reading more about Africa to create my personalized travel itinerary. The different options were somewhat confusing yet exciting. One prominent finding that ticked with my Afro soul search was a wildlife safari experience in Kenya. When I was about to book my trip in November, the COVID-19 omicron emerged, which imposed travel restrictions to Africa.

Although this put my travel plan on hold, it gave me extra time to learn more about this fascinating region and refine my itinerary further. Reading about East Africa’s Great Migration season with millions of wildebeests, zebras, antelopes, and other animals making their way from the Serengeti in Tanzania to the Maasai Mara in Kenya, August 2022 was my new date for this anticipated adventure. With direct flights from Nairobi, Kenya, to Zanzibar, Tanzania, combining a beach experience with the wildlife safari was my ultimate African dream holiday combo.

The Lion Girl

Many travel agencies in Africa and abroad can easily plan and book a wildlife safari trip for you. However, this option takes away the charm of designing your solo trip and eliminates the discovery part with standard options available for accommodation and other activities. It took me some courage to plan and book this trip by myself as a solo woman, given that most people go on safari trips in groups through a travel agent as a safer and more affordable option.

After a considerable search, I decided to exclude the luxurious lodges and camps, which felt a bit too refined for a national reserve stay. Eventually, I went for a moderate bush camp accommodation by the Talek River, which joins the Mara River on the North of the national reserve of Maasai Mara on the border between Kenya and Tanzania. Everything was booked and planned, including the safari flight from Nairobi airport to Maasai Mara, yet every step of the way was still a mystery.

While taking my first safari flight and observing Maasai Mara from above, my heart was beating with excitement and my soul was wandering in the sky with curiosity. Following a swift landing on the Keekorok Airstrip, located southeast of the national reserve, my wildlife safari adventure began with my Maasai game drive guide, who gave me a ride to my accommodation at the Talek Bush Camp. Owned by a passionate wildlife photographer, the camp had a simple yet unique local look and feel. The local staff working at the camp and the Maasai warriors surrounding the tents and lodges for people’s safety were the warmest and most welcoming souls that made me feel at home the minute I stepped into the camp.

After settling in my lodge, which had a beautiful view over the Talek River, I went on my first game drive sunset experience. My Maasai guide was smoothly navigating the wide, open, and bumpy paths with his safari cruiser without even using Google maps. I called him ‘Maasai Schumacher’ due to his fun, speedy ride among the bushes. He called me ‘The Lion Girl’ due to my curly coiled head that looked like a lion crown and my bravery in coming to Kenya by myself to discover its wildlife. The deeper we drove into the national park, the more authentic African animals started coming our way, from zebras to wildebeests, giraffes, ghazals, hippos, buffalos, lions, and ostriches.

The encounter was magical, from staying close to these beautiful creatures to observing their behaviors and interactions. The scene almost felt like a movie premiere or fashion show, with travelers and wildlife photographers waiting in their safari cruisers to take pictures of the celebrity animals' catwalk. I ended the game drive with an unforgettable sunset, mixed with a colorful rainbow and light rain, watching the African elephants slowly walking in the savanna.

The next day, I was up by 5 am and got ready to leave the camp at 6 am for a full-day game drive with a packed breakfast and lunch. Watching the sunrise, breathing the fresh air, smelling nature after heavy rain, and having a picnic meal in the middle of the bushes became my favorite new rituals. While people aim to catch The Big 5 (the African elephant, lion, leopard, buffalo, and rhino) on a game drive, my goal became enjoying whatever mother nature put in my way. However, one observation that stood out was watching wildebeests and zebras gather their strength to cross the Mara River. As simple as it may sound, it’s a life-threatening step with crocodiles waiting in the river to feast on their next prey.

During my three-day trip to Maasai Mara, I began appreciating wildlife photography and became more patient in waiting for my target animal to rise and walk in front of my iPhone camera and capture the perfect shot. I experienced my first hot air balloon sunrise ride with breathtaking views of the green infinite national reserve. I also had the chance to visit a Maasai village and learn more about the local people’s way of living, traditions, and culture. Opposite to what you read before planning a wildlife safari trip, I found out that wearing colorful patterns like the Maasai is the most natural thing to do to blend with your surroundings (and not necessarily khaki colors only). With so many unplanned details and genuine interactions, I left Maasai Mara with tears of joy, feeling blessed for all its natural gifts and memories.

The Spice Girl

Following a very intense and rich adventure in Maasai Mara, I was eager for my beach break in Zanzibar, Tanzania. At the same time, I was curious to discover whether this island experience would beat what my eyes and soul observed in one of the most fascinating national reserves in the world. As planned, I took a short 1:30-hour flight from Nairobi to Zanzibar. Along the way, I also met other travelers who opted for a similar win-win combo of East Africa’s wildlife and island vacation.

Like my Kenyan accommodation choice, I picked an authentic boutique hotel facing the beach with vibrant local art and murals. My choice was heavily influenced by the hotel name ‘Zenobia', one of my nicknames during university time…I mean, why not stay in my hotel? As soon as I arrived at Zenobia, I was welcomed by ‘Zeina’, a happy local lady who works as a receptionist. Shortly after checking in, I rushed to the hotel terrace to catch a breathtaking sunset while sipping my fresh passion fruit mocktail. The chilled island views with people walking barefoot on the beach and the Swahili dhows sailing along the beats of traditional music in front of a warm sunset gave me a special Zanzibari greeting that exceeded my expectations.

Diving deeper into Zanzibar’s culture, I went next on a day trip to a spice farm to sample the aromatic scents planted on this magical island. With influences from China, India, Portugal, Oman, and many others, the ‘Spice Islands’ provided the ideal climate to grow all sorts of plants from clove to cardamom, turmeric, cinnamon, chili, lemongrass, and black pepper. It also had all kinds of zesty tropical fruits, from coconut to mango, passion fruit, and Matoke bananas. After having an informative and fun time with the local people at Maganga spice farm, I was yet given another honorary nickname, ‘The Spice Girl’. My next stop was at Stone Town, the main city of Zanzibar, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The authentic old town, which has a mixed Arab, Persian, Indian, European, and African character, had an immediate click with my Arab-fusion look and feel. Furthermore, Stone Town is also Freddie Mercury's childhood home, which is now a monument to the iconic Queen Rockstar.

One of the most genuine activities I enjoyed in Zanzibar was having a walk on the beach every morning after sipping my picturesque coffee. As I walked barefoot on the sand, I met many locals who greeted me with a smile while also trying to sell me their handmade products. The beach was splashed with colorful local paintings of all shapes and forms, African jewelry, souvenirs, and handicrafts. It was an irresistible outdoor natural shopping mall that would capture all your senses. With whatever cash was left in my purse, I did my best to satisfy my Afro-shopping cravings. It was also my way of saying a small ‘Thank You’ to the local people trying to make a living and support their families.

While exploring the city’s history and heritage during the day, I was also keen to experience its nightlife scene, music, dance, and art which are essential to immerse myself in any culture. That was yet another part of the Zanzibar trip that blew my mind. With a 15-minute walk away from my hotel, I discovered a local beach club ‘Coccobello’ that became my favorite nighttime spot. As one of the most popular places over the weekend, the night at this cozy beach club began with a live performance featuring local Swahili music, Batuka, and Afro dance. The great vibes then continued with local DJs playing all kinds of music, but mainly Afro beats, with dancers, local people, and tourists of all colors, cultures, and backgrounds uniting on the dancefloor under a portrait of Bob Marley’s One Love. The energy and passion in that place were unstoppable, unmatchable, and unforgettable.

After five soul-fulfilling days in Zanzibar, my East African journey came to an end. And yes, it took me almost a year to search, plan, and perfect the itinerary for this trip. However, the details, the people, and the culture were not written or captured in any of the travel information I read and exceeded the ‘perfectionist’ travel planner side of me. I felt very safe and welcomed by all the beautiful souls I met. I experienced many firsts, from taking a hot air balloon sunrise ride in Maasai Mara to watching a natural dance show by a friendly group of dolphins in the open sea in Zanzibar.

The part I enjoyed the most was getting to know the locals, cooking and eating with them, speaking their favorite ‘Hakuna Matata’ and ‘Karibu’ words, swaying to their beats and walking around with my natural Afro hair as one of them. I was given many nicknames between Kenya and Tanzania, from the lion to the spice girl, Shakira, and Zanzibari Queen. That soul search inner calling was very timely. It made me even more proud of my Afro-Arab fusion identity, which will continue to challenge and question biased minds, perceptions, and opinions.